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FASHION NEWS: MARC JACOBS GOES GOTHIC CIRCUS

Häppchenweise verkündete Marc Jacobs bei Instagram wer in seiner Zirkus-Kampagne für die Wintersaison die Manege betritt. Jetzt wissen wir, welche bekannten Gesichter sich für den Designer in düstere Szenen gewagt haben und was das soll…

Bekannte Musiker wie Marilyn Manson, Courtney Love Kembra Pfahler und Miss Elliot, aber auch Topmodell Cara Delevingne, Schauspielerin Sissy Spacek und Performancekünstler Genesis P-Orrige sind Teil der neuen Winterkampagne. Eine wilde Mischung. Starfotograf David Sims hat diese vor dem dunklen Hintergrund in mehrfarbigem Licht beleuchtet und vermittelt in seinen Bildern eine eigensinnige Inszenierung, die an Karneval und Zirkus erinnern.

“In einer Serie von Porträts repräsentieren die Individuen aus unserer Herbstkampagne 2016 eine kollektive Verkörperung von Liebe, Ehrlichkeit, Integrität, Mut, Stärke, Neugier und Inspiration. Zusammen als eine große Geschichte erinnert diese Kollektion daran, das, was als normal angesehen wird, zu hinterfragen, stets mehr zu entdecken und Grenzen zu überschreiten.” so Marc Jacobs über das Thema der Kollektion.

Grenzüberschreitung hat bekanntlich immer etwas mit gespreizten Beinen und Minikleidchen einer Courtney Love, Oversize Anzug einer androgynen Cara Delevingne oder einem böse schauenden Marilyn Manson zutun. Hauptsache androgyn, überdimensional und gerne auch rebellisch mit Nieten und, Army-Muster und Buttons. Gerne auch transsexuell. Wo sonst soll man Paillettensucht und Federschmuck ausleben? (Bewusst überspitzt formuliert, denn wie lange wollen wir uns bitte noch mit der Geschlechter-Thematik visuell auseinander setzen?) Trotz ellenlanger Erklärungen und Statements zu den Bildern fehlt einem doch die wahrhaftige Sinnhaftigkeit und vor allem auch das Neue. Kopien von Kopien, längst gesehene Plateauschuhe aus einer besseren und dunkleren Zeit. Die bekannten Gesichter bringen ihre eigene Geschichte mit in das Bild, prägen den Betrachter und schaffen es nicht durch die Mode oder die Pose eine neue zu erzählen. Schade.

NICHTSDESTOTROTZ, ist diese Kampagne eine sehenswerte Vorstellung innerhalb des Marc Jacobs Instagram Accounts, verfügt über eine spannende Auswahl an Protagonisten in der Manege und immerhin werden in diesem Zirkus keine Tiere gequält – und das ist daran wohl das beste Konzept und ein zukunftsweisender Trend für den kommenden Winter.

ADWOA & TYG, Duo Fashion is undoubtedly about outward, external beauty. As the late Bill Cunningham once said, “fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life.” But in its most pure and honest form, true beauty comes from within. The kind hearted, soft spoken, upbeat and down to earth Tyg Davison opened our Fall ’16 show. For me, Tyg represents another young woman who brings a certain positive energy to fittings on the late nights and early mornings before a fashion show (paying homage to her namesake, Tigger, from Winnie the Pooh!). It takes a certain desire and willingness to push through the unrelenting hours day after day. One of the over arching themes behind the fashion in this Fall ’16 ad campaign is the inherent love that exists within each individual portrayed in the world we worked to create. Being able to love and accept oneself is a key to finding genuine love and acceptance for others. Beyond her extraordinary beauty, Adwoa Aboah embodies a certain courage and strength that is beyond her years. By publicly and openly sharing her experience with addiction via @gurlstalk, as a woman, a daughter, a working professional, and a human being, Adwoa is providing a great service to others. Her personal story is one that I strongly identify with having struggled most of my life with my own addictions. I am humbled by her bravery, openness and service. Adwoa and Tyg by David Sims for Fall ’16.

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KEIJI, Sound Keiji Haino is known for his use of the Japanese concept of Ma, which is typically translated as pause or space. Keiji’s music came to my attention a week before our Fall 2016 fashion show through a friend who was sharing with me about different meditative music and alternative “sound.” The music selection for each show is as important as the set, the clothes and the models. It’s an integral part of creating the intended experience, expression and point of view of a collection. After hearing one of Keiji’s musical pieces, which felt hypnotically simple, strange and oddly appropriate, Katie Grand, Steve Mackey and I became hypnotized by the methodic bells and cymbals and their lasting shadows and impressions. We further stripped down the idea of the set so the clothes and shadows were all that was seen and Keiji’s chilling composition juxtaposed with the heavy hammer of the boots was all that was heard leaving behind, “the haunted spaces between the notes.” Keiji’s music is incredibly transcendent and meditative while also extraordinarily unique. There is a level of dedication and emotion that is ever present in his work that I greatly admire. The discipline of his craft and the intelligence in his approach is unparalleled. I am so greatly honored to share this photograph by David Sims for our Fall ’16 ad campaign that so powerfully captures the enigma-like qualities of the other worldly, Keiji Haino. Ein von Marc Jacobs (@themarcjacobs) gepostetes Foto am

KENDALL, Supermodel I will always remember the first time I met Kendall during castings for our Fall 2014 fashion show. Katie Grand invited her to come by the studio for a brief introduction before she was photographed for the model boards. At the time, I knew very little about Kendall… As history now has it, her very first fashion show was for Marc Jacobs Fall 2014. Kendall has since been a part of every show along with being featured in our Spring ’15 ad campaign (also shot by David Sims). It goes without saying that Kendall has gone on to establish an incredible career for herself and every bit of it is a testament to her hard work, passion and desire. During castings for Fall ’16, due to the enormous height of the boots we designed, we had to make certain that each girl was able to walk (and walk safely). Kendall slid those boots on and walked around the studio as if she was in a pair of running shoes: statuesque, confident and just as enthusiastic and excited to be doing the show as if it was her first one. For me, it is the ability of a model to effortlessly transform into a look and character that makes her so appealing and inspiring. Photographed by David Sims for our Fall ’16 ad as a Goth Goddess is the sweet, kind and ultimate professional, Kendall Jenner.

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COURTNEY, R(evolution) With my abundance of respect for Courtney Love’s musical contributions to grunge/rock culture and her status as this sort of, Grunge Goddess, it was her mesmerizing and extraordinarily moving portrayal of Althea in the film, The People vs Larry Flynt that simultaneously broke my heart and won my love. While I hadn’t yet met Courtney during my time as Creative Director at Perry Ellis, it was her then style that had a great influence on that now infamous “grunge collection” show in 1992. Courtney and I (and a then 2 or 3 year old Frances Bean) first met at dinner with Anna Sui in 1994 at Bar Six in NYC. I remember being quite taken by her deep, thorough knowledge of and voracious appetite for fashion and music. There has always been a genuine allure about Courtney that I continue to admire. The way she’d scream her lyrics from that gash of a red mouth to the hard rocking, wailing sounds of Hole. She was then and remains now, for me, the ultimate divine mess in a dress. Gone but no where near forgotten is the girl-woman Goddess of Grunge in her too small tattered dresses, the little girl barrette in her messy, scattered hair and beaten up brocade 1960’s evening shoes. It’s a long distance from the now iconic kinder-whore Courtney photographed by Juergen Teller for I-D magazine in 1994 to the movie star glamour of the powerfully aloof and infinitely present Courtney, photographed here by David Sims for our Fall ’16 campaign. Ein von Marc Jacobs (@themarcjacobs) gepostetes Foto am

MANSON, Brains and Beauty Ironically, I met Marilyn Manson on Halloween in Los Angeles shortly after the release of his album, Antichrist Superstar in 1996. It was after meeting him that I started listening to his music- in large part because I was intrigued by his persona and curious about his perverse and incredible intellect. The Beautiful People and its accompanying music video with all its gorgeous grotesqueries is what sweet dreams are NOT made of… The incredibly powerful and frenetic pace of the video with the attenuated and elongated Manson pulled, disfigured and contorted by means of surgical devices, dental apparatuses and other contraptions is absolutely nightmare inducing and an outrageously captivating attraction of repulsion. For our Fall 2011 fashion show, there was no better song to send the girls marching down our boudoir comme insane-asylum runway than, The Beautiful People. It was the perfectly twisted companion for that collection which played at a volume that nearly shook the walls down. In direct contrast to the outward hideous beauty of Manson’s stage persona is his instinctive, inherent intelligence and understanding of what matters. These days more so than ever I am reminded of Manson’s interview in the documentary film, Bowling for Columbine and his response to a question asking what he would say to the kids and Columbine community in the wake of the tragedy that took place in 1999. His response was, “I wouldn’t say a single word to them. I would listen to what they have to say, and that’s what no one did.” Sometimes knowing when to listen is more important than being heard, and in one sentence Manson left a stronger impression on me than his music ever had previously. Marilyn Manson photographed by David Sims for our Fall 2016 ad campaign.

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CARA, Womanchild Every once in a blue moon I am fortunate enough to meet a model with a personality so huge it almost overshadows even the strongest of looks– the most dramatic fashion. When I met Cara through Katie Grand a few years ago, she was the girl in the animal onesie with boundless energy, great humor and in perpetual motion. Watching Cara’s growth and evolution into a dynamic, outspoken, independent woman is a true joy, just as she is herself. Her generosity and care in wanting to get a job done right (even if it means missing a flight!) is a testament to her professionalism and true character. Photographed sitting still and just as full of life as always, the unstoppable Cara Delevingne by David Sims for our Fall ’16 ad campaign. Ein von Marc Jacobs (@themarcjacobs) gepostetes Foto am

ANNIE, Other The idea to ask musician Annie Clark (more commonly known by her stage name, St. Vincent) to be a part of our ad campaign had been discussed long before the Fall 2016 season began. It was Katie Grand who originally brought Annie to my attention and suggested we consider extending an invitation to join this campaign. I was really taken by comments Annie made in an interview with Rolling Stone Magazine where she described queerness as a transcendence of sexuality and as a “banner” for being “other.” It was thoughtful, relevant and poignant. There’s a certain maturity that’s inherent in Annie that transcends her age and while her music is a direct reflection of her intellectual curiosities and musical prowess, it was when I had the privilege of meeting Annie in person that I experienced her magnetism. She operates with such genuine grace, poise and sincerity. I am in complete awe of the beauty of this photograph by David Sims for our Fall 2016 ad campaign. It so perfectly captures the inherent contemplativeness of Annie, her humility and mystery.

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KEMBRA, Femininity While I had been aware of Kembra Pfahler’s unique voice and vision during the East Village scene in the 1980’s, it was when her band, The Voluptuous Horror of Karen Black (that name alone!) released their album, The Anti Naturalist, in 1995 when I found myself completely enamored with and curiously drawn to Kembra. Those curiosities lead me to my first TVHOKB performance. Not knowing what to anticipate, Kembra took the stage (set with giant ladybug-like cutouts) in her bow-festooned raven black, teased-to-there hair, naked-painted-red body dressed in nothing but black panties and dominatrix like stiletto boots rocking out with a magnificently raw and punk energy to songs like Spelling Bee, Gotta Get My Eyes Done and my all time favorite, Honky Tonk Biscuit Queen. Making the best use of what’s available or AVAILABILISM as Kembra refers to it, has always been her approach to performing art. This low-tech performance/concert was the most brilliantly raw, twisted punk-rock-of-a-school-play I have ever witnessed and Kembra, a deconstruction of cliché femininity was rooted in such purity and innocence. Portrayed here as a Fetish High Priestess by David Sims for our Fall 2016 campaign, the intensely stunning and provocative Kembra Pfahler. Ein von Marc Jacobs (@themarcjacobs) gepostetes Foto am

In a continuing series of portraits for our Fall 2016 ad campaign, the individuals in these photographs represent a collective embodiment of love, honesty, integrity, courage, strength, curiosity and inspiration. Together, as one story, this collection is a reminder to question and challenge normal and to continue exploring and pushing boundaries. To quote Lana Wachowski, “I am suspicious of everything connected to that word [normal]. It is, to my thinking, a politically correct euphemism for obedience and conformity.” GENESIS P-ORRIDGE, Unconditional Love Through music, poetry and art, Genesis continues to explore, shape shift and define what it means to give love, be loved and live love. For me, Genesis is a sort of come-to-life definition of realness and authenticity and how being lost in an experience or new idea can result in growth and evolution. @pandrogyne Photographed by David Sims and styled by Katie Grand.

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Text: Saskia Weigel
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